I was told that the most powerful of the three remaining Kalash Dehars (shaman) was at a mountain camp where he spends the summer herding his goats. It took us two long days to hike up to Janduli Khan’s ghost (hut) in the high pastures of the Hindu Kush Range near the Afghanistan border. Janduli Khan was extremely friendly insisting that we sleep in his 8’x10’ hut. There were an unbelievable number of flies and fleas inside the ghost. We decided to politely refuse his offer and sleep outside under the stars during the time we spent with him.